How and Where to Onsen in Tokyo

New to the joy of onsen? Not knowing about the bathhouse rituals and etiquette can get you into hot water. Read on for our tips on how and where to onsen in Tokyo.

There are two main types of hot water spa in Japan. The world-famous onsen (Japanese for hot spring) is filled with natural volcanic spring water known for its healing mineral properties, and is not to be confused with the sento, which is just a plain old tap-water spa.

Should you be new to onsen, you will no doubt want this to be an unforgettable experience for the right reasons, so it’s essential to bear in mind a few key points of etiquette. Many onsen do not allow tattoos, so cover up the body art in question with tape, and strictly no underwear is allowed, so it’s not one for the shy. Before taking to the communal bath, you’ll need to get lathered up and squeaky clean at the showers (usually replete with dinky stool) – be sure to rinse well, as corrupting suds in the bath is a major no-no.

Of all the Tokyo onsen, zen-sational Niwa no Yu, perched in a Kenzo Kosugi-designed garden, is our pick of the crop. Unfurl like a lotus flower in a men- or women-only bath, or make for the co-ed Finnish sauna, Jacuzzi and swimming pool (for which you should, of course, don your swimsuit) Making a day of it with your pals? Ask about the exclusive 'joshi-no-kai' private lunch and dinner packages.

For fewer frills and more bang for your buck, try the sprawling 22-hour LaQua onsen, handily placed in the city centre with jaw-dropper views. Five floors of rain showers, massages, scrubs, steam area, and outdoor onsen come with basic add-ons, like a modesty towel and comfy yukata for strolling around the common areas. Pre-dip, book in for a massage at Hawaiian-style hot-stone spa Lani Kai, one of the mini-salons tucked inside the complex.

Small town-vibe Sakura offers the rustic onsen experience without ever having to leave Tokyo. Lazy daisies can hop aboard the free shuttle service from Sugamo Station but, weather permitting, we suggest walking to the spa as it’s in a rather lovely old residential neighbourhood – which is why it attracts a less touristy. Kick back in the indoor and outdoor tubs, stone sauna, and spa which source mineral-rich waters from deep under Tokyo.

Niwa no Yu / 3-25-1 Mukaiyama / Nerima-ku / +81 3 3990 4126 / 10am-11pm daily / niwanoyu.jp

LaQua / 1-1-1 Kasuga / Bunkyo-ku / +81 3 5800 9999 / 11am-9am daily / laqua.jp

Sakura / 5-4-24 Komagome / Toshima-ku / +81 3 5907 5566 / 10am-11pm daily / sakura-2005.com