Historic Walks Through Tokyo

Always a walkable city, Tokyo is even more enjoyable on foot in September when the summer sizzle begins to ease. Take a tranquil wander through these parks, laneways and neighbourhoods to lift the kimono on Tokyo’s hidden historic side.

It doesn’t get much more historic than the seat of the Emperor of Japan and his family, the Imperial Palace. Built on the site of the old Edo Castle, this sprawling settlement is home to palaces, halls and gardens galore, but the East Gardens – with its moats, fortified walls, guardhouses and picturesque bridges – make for a particularly charming amble. Or if you want to up the pace, take on the scenic 5km loop which not only takes you around the main attraction but also does a complete circuit of the northern grounds.

One of the few scattered heritage enclaves among Tokyo’s seemingly endless concrete jungle is Yanaka, whose Edo-era architecture miraculously survived the bombings of WWII. Slowly meander through the vast, idyllic Yanaka Cemetery, the final resting place of the last Edo shogun Tokugawa Yoshinobu; shop artisan crafts including woodblock-printed paper at Isetatsu and handmade leather goods at Sonomitsu; and finally, finish with a steaming bowl of delicious udon at Oshimaya.

Although the monolithic Tokyo Skytree is doing its best to modernise the neighbourhood, what with the swanky apartment blocks that have popped up in its wake, offbeat downtown Mukojima remains one of the few areas in Tokyo where it’s possible to spot real geisha, who work along Kenban-dori. We suggest leaving the area around the world’s tallest TV tower behind and delving the ‘shitamachi’ district (or, ‘lower city’) for wonderfully preserved 1920s architecture, traditional shops and authentic restaurants. As a contrast, beeline for Mukojima Hyakkaen, a peaceful garden famed for its plum trees and wild birds.

Alternatively, if you don’t have the time to seek out a specific neighbourhood, simply stay on the lookout for yokocho – Tokyo's old-school alleyways. These curious and often cramped passages are dotted between many of the city’s sleek skyscrapers and massive train station complexes, just waiting to be explored. Some of the quaintest include sushi perch Ebisu Yokocho, and the pub-lined Sankaku Chitai. Kampai!

Isetatsu / 2-18-9 Yanaka / Taito-ku / +81 3 3823 1453 / 10am-6pm daily / isetatsu.com

Sonomitsu / 2 Chome-18-6 / Yanaka / +81 3 3823 7178 / 1pm-7pm Mon, Tue, Fri / 12pm-7pm Sat & Sun / sonomitsu.com

Oshimaya / 1-5-2 Tsukishima Capital Gate Place / Chuo / +81 3 3531 1331

Tokyo Skytree / 1-1-2 Oshiage / Sumida-ku / 8am-10pm daily / tokyo-skytree.jp

Ebisu Yokocho / 1 Chome-7-4 Ebisu / Shibuya City / 5pm-5am daily