New York's Seafood Spoils
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From shucking good oysters to expertly prepared sushi, the Big Apple has a mighty fine offering of seafood restaurants. Sleeves up as you chow down at one of these top picks.
Polished walnut, brown leather chairs, onyx glow bar, crudo counter, charming staff and impeccable cooking – two-Michelin starred Italian Marea is one fine dame. The elegance of the dining room is reflected in the refined ‘Crudo al Taglio’ tasting menu featuring standouts like Pacific snapper with peach and yellowfin tuna with arugula almond pesto. Booking essential.
If it’s oysters you’re after, there are few places better than the historic wooden schooner Grand Banks. You’ll have to brave the queues to hop aboard in the evenings, but it’s worth the wait for freshly shucked shellfish and rosé while bobbing on the Hudson River. Prefer dry land? The iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar is a countertop dining experience with a vast range of seafood offerings and yesteryear vibe.
For something a little different head to Alex Stupak’s lively Empellón and feast octopus and sea urchin tacos. The Mexican-inspired menu (best sampled via sharing plates) is a masterpiece of culinary creativity; along with tacos there’s a range of wow dishes like king salmon with gooseberries and trout roe salsa and smoked black cod with potato chorizo vinaigrette. Alex is a former pastry chef, so it’s no surprise that the desserts are equally inventive.
West Village haunt Sushi Katsuei’s 9-course omakase is a fraction of the price of those found in Manhattan's more austere sushi palaces, and while the interior is blah, who cares when the meltingly fresh fatty tuna, mackerel and uni are this good.
A stylish sit-down iteration of NYC’s famed family-run shop and local institution, Russ & Daughters Cafe is the go-to for caviar and smoked fish galore. The menu of old-fashioned kosher comfort food (looking at you, potato latkes) really packs 'em in – geshmak!
Marea / 240 Central Park S / +1 212 582 5100 / lunch & dinner daily / marea-nyc.com
Grand Banks / Hudson River Park Pier 25 / +1 212 660 6312 / 11am-12.30am Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30am Sat-Sun / grandbanks.nyc
Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant / 89 E 42nd St / +1 212 490 6650 / 11.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri / oysterbarny.com
Empellón / 510 Madison Ave / +1 212 858 9365 / 11.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 5pm-9.30pm Sat / empellon.com
Sushi Katsuei / 210 7th Ave / +1 718 788 5338 / dinner Wed-Mon / sushikatsuei.com
Russ & Daughters Cafe / 127 Orchard St / +1 212 475 4880 / 8.30am-3.30pm Fri-Sun, 8.30am-2.30pm Mon-Thu / russanddaughterscafe.com